North korea

The adventure began with a scheduled two-hour Air Koryo service to Pyongyang aboard a Tupolev TU-204; Air Koryo has two – a series 100B and a shorter-fuselage and rarer -300. We scored the -100B (registered P-633) both inbound and outbound. I decided to sample Club Class to Pyongyang with typical pre-flatbed four-abreast business seating and a sampling of tasty Korean cuisine. On the way back I opted for economy with its six-abreast seats, where the fare comprised a more basic bread roll with salad filling.

Over the six days of the tour we experienced local flights aboard the newest addition to the fleet, an Antonov AN-148-100B (P-671), Ilyushin IL-62M (P-885) and IL-76MD (P-912). We flew Antonov AN-24B (P-537), Ilyushin IL-18D (P-835), Tupolev TU-134B-3 (P-814) and Tu-154B-2 (561) charters to Samjiyon (Mount Paektu) near the border with China and Sondok/Hamhung, east of the capital.

All aircraft were fitted with comfortable economy seats and some had small first class sections (these days, business class standard), except for the IL-76MD, which as a freighter, had drop-down seating along the walls facing inwards. Windows were few in this aircraft, but passengers were free to walk around after the seatbelt sign was switched off to view the high wing and four underslung turbofans through the few small ports. The jets transported me back to the 1960s, with their guttural takeoff roar harmonising with a high-pitched shriek.

Inspection inside and out of a rare Ilyushin IL-14 on static display at Pyongyang was also scheduled. Once the personal transport of President Kim Il-Sung and a gift of the Soviet Union, this twin-radial airliner is to be relocated to a museum.

“The jets transported me back to the 1960s, with their gutteral takeoff roar…”

Photography of the Air Koryo airliners on the ground and in the cabin was without restriction and our bemused air crew and flight attendants patiently tolerated our fascination for every angle. Flightdeck visits, once back on the ground, were arranged and the crews willingly lined up for group photos. They even cleaned up a number of the aircraft for photography by closing the doors and withdrawing all ground vehicles, while obligingly positioning the mobile air stairs in a number of locations as camera platforms. Everyone was asked, however, not to take photos of military aircraft.

Air Koryo crews are all North Korean – male aircrew and charming female flight attendants. The airline’s operations, both to and from Beijing and within the DPRK were efficient and flights ran to excellent time. There was not one delay due to unserviceability. The scheduling of the aviation tours is based upon the best times of year for weather. Air Koryo operates charter flights only within the DPRK; there are no scheduled domestic services. A senior public relations executive of the airline rounded off our week with an address on the history of Air Koryo.

Interspersed with the flights were walking or coach tours to places of interest and great beauty. The food and accommodation generally ranged from above-average to superior and our young English-fluent guides were professional, gracious, knowledgeable and fun to be with. By the end of the trip they had become good friends.

Most nationals may enter North Korea as tourists, but must do so through a limited number of ports, the most common of which is Beijing. The easiest plan is to book one of the many tours available, with everything pre-paid except drinks, snacks outside meal times, souvenirs and personal items.
London-based Juche Travel Services looked after all our arrangements, through the Korean International Travel Company (KITC) and represented incredible value. The tours are suitable for spouses also, with alternative sightseeing for those not interested in all the local flying. Pyongyang and the North Korean countryside are a fascinating experience and the people are friendly and welcoming.